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Gay Guide to Kyoto

Japan has no national same-sex marriage, but a fast-growing number of municipalities now issue partnership certificates and courts have repeatedly found the ban unconstitutional, all against a backdrop of broad social tolerance. Kyoto, the ancient imperial capital, keeps a small, gracious queer scene amid its temples and machiya townhouses.

The nightlife is intimate and conversation-focused, clustered in the atmospheric riverside blocks around Kiyamachi and Nishikiyamachi near Kawaramachi, where tiny foreigner-friendly gay bars line up beside Pontocho's lantern-lit lanes. Bars here seat only a handful of guests, so a night out means chatting with the bartender and regulars rather than dancing in a crowd.

Kyoto pairs its shrines, gardens, and geisha districts with an understated, welcoming scene that rewards the curious.

There is no large Pride in Kyoto; the pleasure is in the city's serene beauty and its handful of warm little bars.